Sapsford Wines | Talks and Tastings

The most recent talks and tastings we have given to wines societies have included:

Amersham Wine Appreciation Society - a Loire Valley tasting - Buckinghamshire
Scarborough Sommeliers - a Rhone tasting - North Yorkshire
Caistor Wine Society - a Rhone tasting - North Lincolnshire
The Whitewater Valley Wine Society - Syrah or Shiraz - Hampshire

The following is a review of the last tasting noted above, written by society secretary Keith Cooper:

Whitewater Valley Wine Society - November Tasting 2005

Syrah and Shiraz (old world versus new world)

If, as Shakespeare says, "a rose by any other name would smell as sweet", then does a wine by another name taste as good? Members of the Whitewater Valley Wine Society had the oppertunity to decide for themselves at our November tasting.

The tasting pitched heart of old world wine making, France, against the four corners of new world wine making, Argentina, South Africa, Australia and the United States. In each case, the grape variety was the same - syrah - but in some cases under its alternative name - shiraz - which is more often used by New World winemakers. Syrah is one of the noble grape varieties known from ancient times and is thought to originate in southern Iran. It was probably introduced to France by Greek or Roman traders.

Introductions to the wines were provided by our guest speakers, a double act of Barry and Mary Sapsford, who are this year celebrating 21 years in business as Sapsford Wines, of Ware, Hertfordshire. They specialise in importing wines from individuals and small family businesses with whom they have developed close relationships over the years, supplying them to restaurants and golf clubs in particular.

Our first four wines were all from France. These are produced under strict Appellation Controllee (AC) rules that govern the growing techniques and blends of grapes that can be used. The aim was to show how including syrah grapes in differing blends affects the resulting wine. First was a Cotes du Rhone 2003 from Domaine Chapoton (£5.70, 13.4%). this relatively young wine is a blend with 45% being syrah. It had a smokey, leathery nose and hard tannins and will become more balanced with 2-3 years' more aging. Next was Cuvee Charlemange, AC Corbieres 2000, from Chateau La Pujade (£7.50, 13%), a 40% syrah blend that has been tamed by five years in bottle. A sweet, chocolaty taste of syrah was noticeable. From the north Rhone came St. Joseph AC 1999, P. Jamet (£9.50, 13.5%) that was 90% syrah with the remainder being a white wine grape. This had a charming perfume, reminiscent of lime trees, and floral, elderflower tastes. Our final French wine was Cave Habrard, Crozes Hermitage AC 1999 (£8.85, 12.5%), and pure syrah. This had a peppery liquorice taste and was described as being "a tamed animal".

We then moved on to our four new world wines, all of which were grown with irrigation in near-desert conditions on the eastern side of mountain ranges. They were all pure syrah/shiraz, but fermented with different levels of oak. The first of these was from Argentina, Goyenechea (pronounced "guy-on-a-chair") Syrah 2001, from San Rafael, Mendoza (£5.80, 12.5%). Unoaked in a traditional approach, it was a bit jammy and leathery, but not long lasting in the mouth. From South Africa came Beaumont Shiraz 2003, of thre Houw Hoek Mountains, Walker Bay (£10.70, 14.5%). Its high alcohol content gave it a sweetness, alongside its peppery and spicey taste and hints of vanilla. This wine would be superb in 2-3 years more and is still worth trying in 10 years. From down under in Australia we tried a 2002 McLaren Vale Shiraz from boutique wine maker Simon Hackett (£8.70, 13.5%). The use of American oak produced a complex nose but the wine itself was "not in your face" and will cellar for five years more. Finally, we crossed to Washington State in the US, to try a 1998 syrah from Red Willow Vineyard, Yakima Valley (£12.75, 14%), a vineyard founded by a group of university professors in the late 1950's. Despite dating from 1998, the wine, aged with some French oak, was described as still quite youthful and likely to last another 10 years in bottle. It has a smokey nose, with caramel and toasted spice tastes.

Our two speakers led us through an entertaining evening, lightening their descriptions of the wines themselves with anecdotes about the producers and their experiences in meeting them.

Additional tasting topics we can offer for the near future are:

To book a talk and tasting for your wine group simply contact Sapsford Wines by e-mail, fax or ‘phone and agree a date and topic.